We visited Cheltenham during a blizzard in January, and though our shooting ended up being cancelled, we were very happy to have the opportunity to visit le Champignon Sauvage.David and Helen Everitt-Matthias first opened lCS in 1987, and have held two Michelin stars for thirteen years. David has also won the National Chef of the Year competition, and has three excellent cookbooks to his name, all of which I adore, and which I dragged along to be signed by David.
The room has just undergone refurbishment and gone are the heavy blue tones. In their place are warm wooden panels, shades of sand and taupe, and a wide range of artwork. Service is professional and prompt, but I suspect real warmth is saved for regulars. An elderly couple celebrating their wedding anniversary recalled with fondness the opening of the restaurant, and it's clear that it has a very loyal clientele.
The food was very precise, and we enjoyed some unusual combinations of flavours. Elements could be tasted individually, but also combined to make a delicious whole, and this is one of the few restaurants we've been to that had a clear sense of menu development.
When I brought my books along, Helen very kindly let me look at the unpublished third book, and frankly that could have been my afternoon had the Hubby not prised it from my mitts. lCS is definitely on our return list as soon as the season kicks off...
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| Goats cheese cookie, with parmesan and poppy seeds, together with a malted biscuit, with pickled pear, spring onion |
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| Brioche - outstanding - onion and bacon |
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| Dexter beef tartar, corned beef, wasabi and shimeji mushrooms |
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| Saute of langoustines, roasted heritage carrots, carrot puree, and buttermilk |
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| Lamb with sweetbreads, and cockles |
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| Roasted partridge, ceps and cep purée, chicory, braised walnuts, garlic buds (!), and spring onion |
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| Bergamot parfait, orange jelly, liquorice cream, liquorice tuilles |
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| Petit Fours (part one) |
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| Petit Fours (part two) |
le Champignon Sauvage
24-26 Suffolk Road,
Cheltenham,
Gloucestershire GL50 2AQ
